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Maryland State Inspection
Maryland Safety Inspection vs. Emissions Test (VEIP): What’s the Difference?
Safety inspection vs. emissions test: in Maryland, these are two separate programs. The safety inspection happens once, when a used car is sold, titled or transferred, and checks brakes, tires, lights, steering and more at a licensed repair shop. The VEIP emissions test is generally every two years in 14 jurisdictions, including Montgomery County, and is done at VEIP stations or self-service kiosks. Quick answerSafety inspection: one time, before a used car can be sold, titled or transferred in Maryland. Done at about 1,600 licensed inspection stations.Emissions test (VEIP): generally every two years in 14 jurisdictions. Done at VEIP stations or 24/7 self-service kiosks.Different checks: the safety inspection looks at equipment and condition. VEIP reads your car's on-board diagnostics (OBD).New Level Auto Service does the safety inspection and fixes emissions problems, but is not a VEIP test site. What's the difference between a safety inspection and an emissions test? People mix these up all the time, and it's easy to see why. Both come from the state, both involve your car being checked, and both can hold up your paperwork. But they check different things, happen at different times, and are done at different places. The Maryland safety inspection makes sure a used car is safe to be on the road before it's titled in Maryland. It's done by registered inspection mechanics at licensed inspection stations, including repair shops like ours. Read how ours works on our Maryland State Inspection page. The emissions test is Maryland's Vehicle Emissions Inspection Program, or VEIP. It checks that your car's emissions system is working, using the on-board diagnostics (OBD) computer. It's a separate program with its own stations. Safety inspection vs. emissions test, side by side Maryland safety inspection When: before a used vehicle can be sold, titled or transferred in Maryland. How often: once, when the vehicle is first titled in Maryland. It is not yearly. Who does it: a registered inspection mechanic at a licensed inspection station. Where: about 1,600 licensed stations statewide. The Maryland State Police has a station lookup. What's checked: brakes, tires, lights and headlight aim, glass and wipers, steering, suspension, exhaust, fuel system, seat belts, horn, mirrors, frame and a test drive. Cost: set by each station and required to be displayed (at New Level Auto Service: starting at $110 for passenger cars and $140 for SUVs) there. Result: a certificate valid for 90 days from the date issued. VEIP emissions test When: when the MVA notifies you. They email about 8 weeks before the test is due, or mail a notice if there's no email on file. How often: generally every two years. New vehicles (2019 or newer, original owner, titled in Maryland) get their first test 72 months from the model year, then every two years. Who does it: the VEIP program, with an attendant at a VEIP station or at a self-service kiosk. Where: VEIP stations or 24/7 kiosks. Kiosks take model year 2005 and newer vehicles under 8,500 lbs, and 2008 and newer under 14,000 lbs. What's checked: the car's emissions system through its OBD computer. Cost: not set by repair shops. Check the MVA's emissions page for the current fee. Where it applies: 14 jurisdictions, including Montgomery County. Where is VEIP testing required in Maryland? VEIP testing is required in 14 jurisdictions: Anne Arundel, Baltimore City, Baltimore, Calvert, Carroll, Cecil, Charles, Frederick, Harford, Howard, Montgomery, Prince George's, Queen Anne's and Washington. If you live in Rockville or anywhere else in Montgomery County, you're in a VEIP area. The safety inspection has no county list. It applies statewide whenever a used car is titled in Maryland for the first time. Need a safety inspection or an emissions repair?We're a licensed Maryland inspection station in Rockville. We're not a VEIP site, but we fix the problems that cause emissions failures.See state inspection What happens if you fail each one? If you fail the safety inspection You get a receipt that lists what needs to be repaired. You can fix the items yourself or at any shop. If you return within 30 days of the original inspection and have driven under 1,000 miles, only the failed items are rechecked, but it must be the same registered inspection mechanic at the same station. Otherwise, you need a complete new inspection, paid in full. Stations may charge for reinspection unless the repairs can be verified visually. If you fail the VEIP emissions test You have 120 days to make repairs and return for a retest, and the first retest is free. If you've spent at least $450 on emissions-related repairs and the car still doesn't pass, you may qualify for a waiver. Check with the MVA for the details of how waivers work. Can New Level Auto Service do my emissions test? No. We are not a VEIP test site, and we don't do emissions tests. We do the Maryland safety inspection for cars, SUVs, minivans and trucks up to 10,000 lbs gross vehicle weight rating, and we send certificates to the MVA electronically. Where we help with emissions is the repair side. Because VEIP reads your car's OBD computer, a lit check engine light is a common reason cars fail. Our check engine light service finds out what's setting the light, and our computer diagnostics can read the codes the test will see. Exhaust leaks and damaged parts are handled by our exhaust and muffler repair team. A good rule of thumb: if your check engine light is on and your VEIP notice just arrived, get the light checked before you go to the test. It saves you a trip. QuestionsSafety inspection vs. emissions test FAQIs the Maryland safety inspection the same as the emissions test?No. The safety inspection is a one-time equipment check before a used car is titled in Maryland. The VEIP emissions test is a separate program, generally every two years in 14 jurisdictions.How often do you need a safety inspection in Maryland?Only once, when the vehicle is first titled in Maryland. It is not a yearly inspection.Does Montgomery County require emissions testing?Yes. Montgomery County is one of the 14 Maryland jurisdictions where VEIP testing is required.Will a check engine light fail the emissions test?VEIP tests your car through its on-board diagnostics, and a check engine light usually means the computer has stored a fault. Have it diagnosed and repaired before your test date.Where can I get a Maryland safety inspection in Rockville?We're a licensed Maryland inspection station at 716 E Gude Dr in Rockville. See our Maryland State Inspection page, or call (301) 762-1200. Sources: Maryland MVA, Safety Inspections, Maryland State Police, Vehicle Inspections, Maryland MVA, Vehicle Emissions Inspection, Maryland Department of the Environment, VEIP. Rules can change, so check with the MVA before your appointment. About the authorChristian owns New Level Auto Service in Rockville, MD. He has more than 20 years of experience working on cars and has run the shop for over 10 years. The shop is a licensed Maryland State Inspection station with ASE-certified mechanics who work on all makes and models. More about our shop. Bring your car to New Level Auto ServiceWe're at 716 E Gude Dr in Rockville, MD. Walk-ins are welcome, and calling ahead gets you in faster.Phone (301) 762-1200Hours Monday to Friday 8 AM to 5 PM, Saturday 9 AM to 2 PMExtras Night drop and 24-hour emergency towingCall nowDirections
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Maryland State Inspection
Moving to Maryland With Your Car: What You Need to Do
After moving to Maryland, you must title and register your car within 60 days. For most vehicles, that means passing a Maryland safety inspection first, then taking your out-of-state title, proof of address, insurance and payment to the MVA. You don't need an emissions test before registering. The MVA tells you when that's due later. Quick answerDeadline: title and register within 60 days of moving to Maryland.Step one: pass a safety inspection at a Maryland inspection station. The certificate is good for 90 days.Exception: if you're returning with a car that was previously titled in Maryland in your name, no safety inspection is required.Emissions: not needed before registration. The MVA notifies you about three months after you register.Missing the deadline can cost you the credit for titling tax you already paid in another state. How long do you have to register your car after moving to Maryland? The MVA's rule is clear: you must title and register your vehicle within 60 days of moving to Maryland. Sixty days sounds like a lot, but between unpacking, starting a new job and getting a Maryland driver's license, it goes fast. Missing the deadline has real costs. If you're late, you lose eligibility for a tax credit for the titling tax you paid in another state. You can also be cited for driving with out-of-state registration after the deadline. Put the date on your calendar the week you move. Do you need a safety inspection when you move to Maryland? For most vehicles, yes. A safety inspection at a licensed Maryland inspection station is required before the MVA will title the car. The inspection happens once, when the vehicle is first titled in Maryland. It is not a yearly inspection. There is one exception. If you're returning to Maryland with a vehicle that was previously titled in Maryland in your name, no safety inspection is required. If you're not sure whether that applies to you, check with the MVA before you go. Your car can be inspected while it still has your old state's plates, because the vehicle only needs to be properly registered in Maryland or another state to be inspected. The inspection certificate is valid for 90 days from the date it's issued, which gives you enough time to get to the MVA once the car passes. At our shop, we send the certificate to the MVA electronically. You can read more on our Maryland State Inspection page. Why you should get the inspection early This is the part most new residents underestimate. If the car fails, it has to be repaired and reinspected before you can title it, and repairs can take time. Parts may need to be ordered. Your schedule may not line up with the shop's. A car that's been driven in a state without a safety inspection can have worn parts nobody has looked at in years. Common reasons cars fail include: Worn brake pads or rotors, or a leaking brake line (see our brake repair service) Tires worn below 2/32 inch tread, or mismatched tires on the same axle Burned-out bulbs or badly aimed headlights A cracked windshield in front of the driver Aftermarket window tint darker than Maryland allows Worn steering and suspension parts, like tie rods or ball joints Exhaust leaks or fluid leaks If the car fails, you get a list of what needs fixing. Come back to the same station and the same inspector within 30 days and under 1,000 miles, and only the failed items are rechecked. Getting the inspection done in your first couple of weeks leaves room for all of that and still beats the 60-day deadline. Just moved to Rockville or Montgomery County?We're a licensed Maryland inspection station for cars, SUVs, minivans and light trucks. We can inspect your car and fix anything it needs to pass.See state inspection What documents do new Maryland residents need to register a car? Bring these to the MVA when you title and register: A Maryland driver's license or proof of your Maryland residential address Your out-of-state title Lienholder information, if you have a loan on the car The Certificate of Title application (form VR-005), if you didn't fill it out ahead of time The Maryland Safety Inspection Certificate, unless the returning-resident exception applies Your insurance information Payment for taxes and fees If your lender holds your title, ask the MVA and your lender how they handle it before your visit. For the titling tax and any credit for tax you paid in your old state, the MVA's new resident page has the details. When do you need a Maryland emissions test? Not before you register. Emissions testing through Maryland's Vehicle Emissions Inspection Program (VEIP) is a separate program from the safety inspection. The MVA notifies you when your car is due, about three months after registration. Montgomery County is one of the Maryland jurisdictions where VEIP testing is required. We don't do VEIP emissions tests. We do the safety inspection, and we can fix the problems that often cause an emissions failure. If your check engine light comes on, our check engine light service can find the cause before your test date. A simple timeline for new residents Week 1 or 2: get Maryland car insurance lined up and start your driver's license process. Week 2 or 3: get the safety inspection. If anything fails, get it repaired and rechecked. Week 3 to 6: gather your documents and title and register at the MVA. About three months later: watch for the MVA's emissions notice. QuestionsMoving to Maryland car FAQHow many days do I have to register my car in Maryland after moving?You must title and register your vehicle within 60 days of moving to Maryland. Missing the deadline can cost you the credit for titling tax paid in another state.Does my car need an inspection if I move to Maryland?Most vehicles need a Maryland safety inspection before they can be titled. The exception is a vehicle previously titled in Maryland in your name that you're bringing back.Can I get my car inspected with out-of-state plates?Yes. The vehicle needs to be properly registered in Maryland or another state to be inspected, so your current out-of-state registration works.Do I need an emissions test before I register in Maryland?No. Emissions testing isn't required before registration, and the MVA notifies you about three months after you register when your test is due.Can New Level Auto Service do my inspection?Yes, we're a licensed Maryland inspection station for Type A vehicles in Rockville. See our Maryland State Inspection page, or call ahead to get in faster. Sources: Maryland MVA, New Residents: Title and Register Your Vehicle, Maryland MVA, Safety Inspections, Maryland State Police, Vehicle Inspections, Maryland MVA, Vehicle Emissions Inspection. Rules can change, so check with the MVA before your appointment. About the authorChristian owns New Level Auto Service in Rockville, MD. He has more than 20 years of experience working on cars and has run the shop for over 10 years. The shop is a licensed Maryland State Inspection station with ASE-certified mechanics who work on all makes and models. More about our shop. Bring your car to New Level Auto ServiceWe're at 716 E Gude Dr in Rockville, MD. Walk-ins are welcome, and calling ahead gets you in faster.Phone (301) 762-1200Hours Monday to Friday 8 AM to 5 PM, Saturday 9 AM to 2 PMExtras Night drop and 24-hour emergency towingCall nowDirections
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Maryland State Inspection
Buying a Used Car in Maryland: Inspection, Title and Tags
Buying a used car in Maryland? Before it can go on the road, it needs to pass a Maryland safety inspection, then be titled and registered with the MVA. A dealer usually handles the inspection, title and tags for you. In a private sale, the buyer is usually responsible for all three, so confirm who handles the inspection before you pay. Quick answerDealer sale: the dealer typically handles the inspection and usually the title and registration.Private sale: the buyer is responsible for the inspection, titling and registration unless you agree otherwise.The inspection certificate is good for 90 days from the date issued, so title and register before it expires.You'll need the signed title, a bill of sale, the inspection certificate, ID, Maryland insurance and payment for taxes and fees. Do you need a safety inspection when buying a used car in Maryland? Yes, for most used vehicles. Maryland State Police put it simply: before you can sell, buy, or register a used vehicle in Maryland, it needs to pass a safety inspection. The certificate is one of the documents the MVA asks for when you title the car. The inspection happens once, when the vehicle is first titled in Maryland, not every year. The certificate is valid for 90 days from the date it's issued. If the seller hands you a certificate, look at the date. If it's close to expiring, plan to get to the MVA quickly. You can learn how inspections work at our shop on our Maryland State Inspection page. Buying from a dealer: what's different? When you buy from a Maryland dealer, the dealer typically handles the safety inspection and usually handles the title and registration paperwork too. That makes the process simpler, but it's still worth asking a few questions before you sign. Has the car already passed inspection? Ask to see the certificate or the inspection paperwork. Is the dealer doing the title and tags? Get it in writing so you know what to expect. When will you get your plates and registration? Ask how long it usually takes. You'll still need Maryland insurance in place before the car is registered. Buying from a private seller, step by step In a private sale, the buyer is responsible for the inspection, titling and registration. The MVA's advice is to always confirm who is responsible before completing the sale. Here's how most private purchases go. Agree on who handles the inspection. Some sellers get the car inspected before listing it. Others sell it without one. Settle this before money changes hands. Look the car over before you pay. Test drive it, check for leaks and warning lights, and consider having a shop look at it (more on that below). Get the title signed correctly. The seller completes the Certificate of Title with the correct sale price and odometer reading. Get a bill of sale. It's recommended and should include the buyer's and seller's names, the vehicle information, the sale price, the date and both signatures. Get Maryland insurance. You need it before you can register the car. Get the safety inspection if the car doesn't already have a valid certificate. Title and register at the MVA. You can apply in person at an MVA branch or by mail, and you can usually title and register at the same time. What documents do you need to title a used car in Maryland? For a private-party purchase, the MVA lists these items: Application for Certificate of Title (form VR-005) The original title, properly assigned to you by the seller Proof of purchase price or a bill of sale, if applicable Odometer disclosure, if applicable The Maryland Safety Inspection Certificate Your ID A lien release, if the seller had a loan on the car Payment for taxes and fees Maryland charges an excise tax when you title a vehicle. The MVA explains how it's calculated, so check their site for the amount that applies to your purchase before you go. Need the car inspected before you title it?We're a licensed Maryland inspection station in Rockville, and we send the certificate to the MVA electronically.See state inspection How do you drive a car to inspection before it's registered? A vehicle has to be properly registered in Maryland or another state to be inspected. If you just bought a car that isn't registered in Maryland yet, there is a 30-day temporary registration so you can legally drive it to inspection with the proper documentation. Check with the MVA on what you need to bring for the temporary registration. If the car can't be driven safely, don't risk it. We offer 24-hour emergency towing and can bring it to the shop. Should you get the inspection before you pay? This is advice, not law, but it's the most useful tip we can give. If the seller agrees, get the inspection done before you hand over the money. That way you know exactly what the car needs to pass. Here's why it matters. In a private sale, once the car is yours, the repairs it needs to pass are usually yours to pay for, unless you and the seller agreed on something different. A car that looks clean can still need brakes, tires, suspension parts or exhaust work. Knowing that up front gives you room to negotiate the price or walk away. If the seller won't allow an inspection first, you can still have us look the car over. We'll look it over, check the brakes, tires, suspension and leaks, and use our computer diagnostics to scan for stored trouble codes. A scan can show problems the dashboard isn't showing yet. If the check engine light is on, our check engine light service can tell you what's behind it. A few other checks are worth doing on any used car: Make sure the VIN on the title matches the VIN on the car. Ask for service records. Check that the name on the title matches the seller's ID. Ask if there's a loan on the car and get the lien release if there is. QuestionsUsed car inspection and title FAQWho is responsible for the safety inspection when buying a used car in Maryland?In a private sale, the buyer is responsible for the inspection unless the seller agrees to handle it. Dealers typically handle the inspection themselves, so confirm who is responsible before you complete the sale.How long is a Maryland inspection certificate good for?It's valid for 90 days from the date it's issued. You need to title and register the car before it expires.Can I register a used car in Maryland without an inspection?Most used vehicles must pass the safety inspection before they can be titled and registered. Check with the MVA if you think your vehicle may be an exception.What if the car fails inspection after I bought it?You'll get a list of what needs to be fixed. Make the repairs and return to the same station within 30 days and under 1,000 miles so only the failed items are rechecked.How much is the titling tax in Maryland?Maryland charges an excise tax when you title a vehicle, and the MVA explains how it's calculated. Check the MVA website for the amount that applies to your purchase. Sources: Maryland MVA, Buying a Vehicle, Maryland MVA, Private Party Purchase, Maryland MVA, Safety Inspections, Maryland State Police, Vehicle Inspections. Rules can change, so check with the MVA before your appointment. About the authorChristian owns New Level Auto Service in Rockville, MD. He has more than 20 years of experience working on cars and has run the shop for over 10 years. The shop is a licensed Maryland State Inspection station with ASE-certified mechanics who work on all makes and models. More about our shop. Bring your car to New Level Auto ServiceWe're at 716 E Gude Dr in Rockville, MD. Walk-ins are welcome, and calling ahead gets you in faster.Phone (301) 762-1200Hours Monday to Friday 8 AM to 5 PM, Saturday 9 AM to 2 PMExtras Night drop and 24-hour emergency towingCall nowDirections
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Maryland State Inspection
What Fails a Maryland Safety Inspection?
The most common reasons a car fails the Maryland safety inspection are worn brakes, bad tires (including tread below 2/32 inch), burned-out or badly aimed lights, a cracked windshield or worn wipers, window tint darker than 35 percent, loose steering or suspension parts, exhaust leaks, and fluid leaks. Most of these are easy to spot before you go in. Quick answerTop failures: brakes, tires, lights, windshield and wipers, tint, steering and suspension, exhaust, and leaks.Tires fail with tread below 2/32 inch, exposed cords, bulges, or mismatched tires on the same axle.Aftermarket tint on side and rear windows of a passenger car must let through at least 35 percent of light.If you fail, fix the listed items and come back to the same station within 30 days and under 1,000 miles to have only those items rechecked. What does the Maryland safety inspection check? The Maryland safety inspection is required before a used vehicle can be sold, titled or transferred in the state. It happens once, when the vehicle is first titled in Maryland. It is not a yearly inspection. The Maryland State Police inspection chart covers the lights, glass, mirrors, wipers, seats and seat belts, horn, steering, brakes, tires, suspension, exhaust, fuel system, frame and bumpers, plus a short test drive. The inspector looks at the car from the driver's seat, from outside, under the hood and from underneath. A car can drive fine and still fail because of something the owner never noticed, like a dead license plate bulb or a small leak. See how it works at our shop on our Maryland State Inspection page. What are the most common inspection failures? Brakes The inspector checks brake pedal firmness and reserve, the brake warning light, the parking brake, the brake master cylinder and booster, the hydraulic brake lines, and the pads, shoes, drums and rotors. Worn pads, damaged rotors, a leaking line, a soft pedal, or a weak parking brake are common problems. Our brake repair team can check these before your safety inspection. Tires Under Maryland rules, a tire is rejected if the tread is worn below 2/32 inch, if cuts, cracks or snags expose the cords, if there are bumps or bulges from tread separation, if it's regrooved or recut, or if it's marked "not for highway use." Tires on the same axle also need to be the same size and type. Tire size, construction and pressure are all on the checklist, so if your tire pressure light is on, find out why first. We handle tire pressure sensors too. Lights and headlight aim The exterior lamps and dash lamps are checked, along with headlight aim and the turn signals on the test drive. A burned-out bulb (including the license plate light), a cracked lens, or headlights aimed too high or too low are common findings. Windshield, glass, wipers and tint Windshield damage in the area directly in front of the driver is rejected if a crack, chip, star break or bull's-eye is larger than 1/4 inch. In the wider critical area of the windshield, the limit is 1/2 inch. Wipers and washers have to work, so torn blades or an empty or broken washer system can cause a fail. For aftermarket tint, the side windows next to the driver need at least 35 percent light transmittance. On passenger cars, that applies to all side and rear windows. Windshield tint can't go below the AS1 line or more than 5 inches from the top, whichever is less. If the rear windows are tinted, the car needs outside mirrors on both sides. Steering and suspension The test drive checks steering, handling and alignment, and the inspector looks underneath at the suspension and wheel bearings. Worn tie rod ends, ball joints, bushings, leaking shocks or struts, and loose steering are common findings. See our steering and suspension service if the car wanders, clunks over bumps or feels loose. Exhaust The emission and exhaust systems are checked under the hood and underneath. Holes, rusted-through pipes, broken hangers, and leaking joints are typical failures. Our exhaust and muffler repair covers leaks, pipes and hangers. Seat belts, horn, mirrors, doors and fluid leaks Seat belts: the driver's seat and the seat belts are checked. Make sure every belt latches, releases and retracts. Horn: the steering wheel and horn are both checked, so make sure the horn works. Mirrors: mirrors are on the checklist, so replace cracked, missing or loose ones. Doors and latches: the driver's door and window, door latches, the hood latch, fenders and bumpers are all checked. Fluid leaks: leaks in the brake, fuel or steering systems are a common reason to fail. The battery, wiring and engine mounts are checked too. Pre-inspection checklist you can do in the driveway Fifteen minutes and a helper can save you a return trip. Walk around with the lights on. Have someone press the brake, work each turn signal, and put the car in reverse while you watch. Don't forget the license plate light. Look at the windshield. Check for chips and cracks in front of the driver's seat. A small chip can sometimes be repaired before it spreads. Test the wipers and washers. Fill the washer fluid and make sure the blades clear the glass without streaking. Check the tires. Put a penny upside down in the tread. If you can see the top of Lincoln's head, you're at about 2/32 inch or less. Look at the sidewalls for bulges and cuts. Honk the horn and buckle and unbuckle every seat belt. Open and close every door from inside and outside, and run the driver's window up and down. Set the parking brake on a slight slope and see if it holds. Look under the car after it sits overnight. Fresh drips mean a leak worth checking. Listen for exhaust noise at startup and clunks or pulling on your next drive. Look at the dash for warning lights, especially the brake light. This won't catch brake wear, suspension joints or exhaust leaks underneath, which need the car on a lift. But it catches the simple stuff that fails a lot of cars. Need a Maryland State Inspection in Rockville?We're a licensed Maryland inspection station for cars, SUVs, minivans and light trucks, and we send certificates to the MVA electronically.See state inspection What happens if your car fails the safety inspection? If the car fails, you get a receipt that lists what needs to be repaired. You can make the repairs yourself or have any shop do them. Then you bring the car back for reinspection. If you come back within 30 days of the original inspection and have driven fewer than 1,000 miles, only the items that failed are rechecked. The reinspection has to be done by the same registered inspection mechanic at the same station. If you miss either limit, the car needs a complete new safety inspection, paid in full. Stations may charge for a reinspection unless the repairs can be verified visually. Because we're also a full repair shop, we can fix the failed items here and do the recheck at the same station. How can you avoid failing the first time? Do the driveway checklist a week ahead so you have time to replace bulbs, wipers or tires. Fix known problems first. Grinding brakes or a loud exhaust will almost certainly fail. Ask about the fee up front. Each station sets its own inspection fee and has to display it. Ours starts at $110 for passenger cars and $140 for SUVs, including mid-size SUVs. These are starting prices, and the exact price depends on the make and model. QuestionsMaryland inspection failure FAQWhat is the minimum tire tread for a Maryland inspection?Tires are rejected when the tread is worn below 2/32 inch. They also fail for exposed cords, bulges, regrooving, or not matching the other tire on the same axle.Will a cracked windshield fail inspection in Maryland?It can. Damage in the area directly in front of the driver fails if it's larger than 1/4 inch, and damage in the wider critical area fails if it's larger than 1/2 inch.Can window tint fail a Maryland inspection?Yes. Aftermarket tint on the driver's side windows, and on all side and rear windows of a passenger car, must let through at least 35 percent of light.How long do I have to fix things after failing?Come back within 30 days and under 1,000 miles to the same station and inspector, and only the failed items are rechecked. After that, you need a complete new safety inspection.Do I have to get the repairs done where I was inspected?No. You can fix the items yourself or at any shop, but the reinspection has to be at the same station with the same inspector to count as a recheck. See our Maryland State Inspection page for how we handle it. Sources: Maryland MVA, Safety Inspections, Maryland State Police, Vehicle Inspections. Rules can change, so check with the MVA before your appointment. About the authorChristian owns New Level Auto Service in Rockville, MD. He has more than 20 years of experience working on cars and has run the shop for over 10 years. The shop is a licensed Maryland State Inspection station with ASE-certified mechanics who work on all makes and models. More about our shop. Bring your car to New Level Auto ServiceWe're at 716 E Gude Dr in Rockville, MD. Walk-ins are welcome, and calling ahead gets you in faster.Phone (301) 762-1200Hours Monday to Friday 8 AM to 5 PM, Saturday 9 AM to 2 PMExtras Night drop and 24-hour emergency towingCall nowDirections
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Car Troubleshooting
Car Overheating? What to Do Right Now (and What Causes It)
Car overheating? Turn off the A/C, turn the heater and fan to full hot, and pull over as soon as it's safe. Shut the engine off and let it cool. Never open the radiator cap while the engine is hot. The most common causes are low coolant from a leak, a stuck thermostat, a failing water pump, a clogged radiator or a cooling fan that isn't working. Quick answerRight now: A/C off, heater on full hot, pull over safely, engine off.Never open a hot radiator cap or pressurized coolant tank. Hot coolant can spray and burn you.Stop driving if the gauge is in the red, a temperature warning light is on, or steam is coming from under the hood.Common causes: coolant leak, thermostat, water pump, radiator, cooling fan or a broken belt. Head gasket failure is less common but serious.For a tow, call (301) 762-1200. We offer 24-hour emergency towing. What should you do when your car starts overheating? The moment the temperature gauge climbs past its normal spot, or a red temperature light comes on, act fast. A few minutes can be the difference between a simple repair and a damaged engine. Turn off the A/C. The air conditioning adds load and heat to the engine. Turn the heater to full hot and the fan to high. It feels miserable in summer, but the heater core acts like a small second radiator and pulls heat away from the engine. Roll the windows down. Pull over as soon as it's safe. Get off the road, put the hazard lights on, and shut the engine off. Don't open the hood if steam is pouring out. Wait until the steam stops. Once it's safe, opening the hood helps the heat escape. Let it cool for at least 30 minutes. Often longer. Don't pour cold water on a hot engine. Call for help if the gauge was in the red, you saw steam, or you can see coolant leaking. Never open the radiator cap or a pressurized coolant tank on a hot engine. The system is under pressure, and the coolant is well above boiling. Opening it can spray scalding coolant on your face and hands. What causes a car to overheat? Low coolant from a leak: the most common cause. Leaks come from hoses, the radiator, the water pump, the heater core or a loose clamp. You may see green, orange or pink fluid under the car, or smell something sweet. Stuck thermostat: the thermostat opens to let coolant flow to the radiator. If it sticks closed, the engine can overheat quickly, often within a few miles of starting. Failing water pump: the pump moves coolant through the engine. Signs include a leak or drip near the front of the engine, a whining or grinding noise, and overheating. Clogged or damaged radiator: old coolant, debris or corrosion can block the radiator inside, and leaves or bugs can block it outside. Cooling fan not running: a bad fan motor, relay, fuse or sensor. This usually shows up in traffic, when the car isn't moving air through the radiator on its own. Broken drive belt: on many cars the same belt drives the water pump. If it snaps, the engine can overheat fast, and the battery light may come on too. Head gasket failure: less common, and often the result of earlier overheating. See the signs below. A useful clue: if the temperature climbs in stop-and-go traffic but drops back when you get moving, the cooling fan is a likely suspect. If it climbs at highway speed, look more at coolant level, the thermostat, the water pump or the radiator. What are the signs of a blown head gasket? A head gasket seals the engine block to the cylinder head. Overheating can damage it, and a damaged head gasket can also cause overheating. Common signs include: Thick white exhaust smoke with a sweet smell Coolant disappearing with no visible leak Bubbles in the coolant reservoir with the engine running Milky, light brown residue on the oil dipstick or under the oil cap Repeated overheating, rough running or misfires Some of these can have other causes. A little milky residue under the oil cap can come from condensation on short trips, for example. A mechanic can confirm with a pressure test or a combustion gas test. Head gasket work falls under engine repair, and catching it early limits the damage. Is it safe to drive an overheating car? No, not while it's overheating. Driving with the gauge in the red can warp the cylinder head, blow the head gasket or seize the engine. Those repairs cost far more than a tow. If the engine overheated briefly, cooled down, and the coolant level is fine once cold, a short, gentle drive to a shop is sometimes possible. Watch the gauge the whole time and stop again if it climbs. If you have to top off, use the coolant type your owner's manual lists. In an emergency, plain water can get you to a shop, but the system should be flushed and refilled with the right mix afterward. If you saw steam, lost a lot of coolant, or the car overheats again within minutes, don't drive it. Call us for 24-hour emergency towing at (301) 762-1200. Why do cars overheat more in Maryland summer traffic? Maryland summers are hot and humid, and stop-and-go traffic on I-270, the Beltway or Rockville Pike means very little air moves through the radiator. The cooling fan has to do all the work while the A/C adds extra load. A cooling system that seems fine on a spring drive can give up on a 95-degree afternoon in traffic. Low coolant, a weak fan or an old radiator usually shows up first in these conditions. Having the cooling system checked before summer can save you a breakdown in traffic. What can you check yourself safely? Coolant level, engine cold only. Check the see-through reservoir. The level should sit between the MIN and MAX marks. Puddles. Green, orange or pink fluid under the front of the car, especially with a sweet smell, is coolant. Clear water on a hot day is usually normal A/C condensation. Hoses. With the engine cold, look for wet spots, cracks or crusty residue around hoses and clamps. The fan. On many cars the electric fan runs when the A/C is on. Keep hands, hair and clothing clear, because an electric fan can switch on even with the engine off. Clean up spills. Coolant tastes sweet and is poisonous to pets and children. If a scan tool is needed to check fan circuits or temperature sensor readings, computer diagnostics can pinpoint the fault. Engine running hot?Our ASE-certified mechanics pressure-test the cooling system, find the leak or failed part, and fix it before it damages the engine.See cooling system repair QuestionsCar overheating FAQWhat should I do first if my car overheats?Turn off the A/C, turn the heater and fan to full hot, and pull over as soon as it's safe. Turn the engine off and let it cool for at least 30 minutes before checking anything.Why does turning on the heater help an overheating engine?The heater core is a small radiator inside the dashboard. With the heater on full hot and the fan on high, it pulls extra heat out of the coolant.Can I just add water to an overheating car?Only once the engine has cooled, and only in an emergency. Water can get you to a shop, but the cooling system needs the right coolant mix, and a car that is losing coolant has a leak that needs to be found.How long should I wait before opening the radiator cap?Wait until the engine is fully cool, usually at least 30 minutes and often longer. If the upper radiator hose still feels hard and hot, the system is still under pressure.Why does my car overheat only in traffic?At low speed, the cooling fan provides nearly all the airflow through the radiator. Overheating in traffic that goes away on the highway often points to a fan, fan relay or fan sensor problem. About the authorChristian owns New Level Auto Service in Rockville, MD. He has more than 20 years of experience working on cars and has run the shop for over 10 years. The shop is a licensed Maryland State Inspection station with ASE-certified mechanics who work on all makes and models. More about our shop. Bring your car to New Level Auto ServiceWe're at 716 E Gude Dr in Rockville, MD. Walk-ins are welcome, and calling ahead gets you in faster.Phone (301) 762-1200Hours Monday to Friday 8 AM to 5 PM, Saturday 9 AM to 2 PMExtras Night drop and 24-hour emergency towingCall nowDirections
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Car Troubleshooting
Car Won’t Start: Is It the Battery, Alternator or Starter?
When your car won't start, the sound it makes is the best clue. Rapid clicking with dim lights usually means a weak or dead battery. A single click with bright lights often points to the starter. If the engine cranks normally but won't run, the problem is usually fuel, spark or the security system. A car that starts with a jump and then dies again usually has a bad alternator. Quick answerRapid clicking, dim or flickering lights: almost always the battery or its cables.One click, lights stay bright: often the starter or a bad connection to it.Cranks but won't start: think fuel pump, ignition or the anti-theft system, not the battery.Starts with a jump, then dies or the battery light comes on: suspect the alternator or its belt.If you're stuck, call (301) 762-1200. We offer 24-hour emergency towing. What does the sound tell you when your car won't start? Turn the key or press the start button once and listen. Then look at the dashboard and headlights. Those two clues narrow things down fast. Rapid clicking (click-click-click): the starter is trying to engage but the battery doesn't have enough power to turn the engine. This is the classic dead or weak battery sound. Loose or corroded battery cables can cause the same thing. Slow, labored cranking: the engine turns over sluggishly, like it's struggling. Usually a battery near the end of its life, especially on a cold morning. Corroded cables are the other common cause. A single loud click, lights stay bright: the battery has power but the engine doesn't turn. This often points to a failing starter motor or solenoid, or a poor connection on the starter circuit. No sound at all, lights and radio work: can be the starter, a starter relay or fuse, the ignition switch, or the neutral safety switch. No sound, no lights, nothing: a completely dead battery or a battery cable that has come loose. Normal cranking, but the engine never catches: the battery and starter are doing their jobs. The engine isn't getting fuel or spark, or the security system is blocking it. Grinding when you turn the key: the starter gear isn't meshing properly with the flywheel. Stop trying, because repeated grinding can damage both parts. What does a jump-start tell you? A jump-start is also a quick test. How the car behaves afterward says a lot about which part failed. Starts right up and keeps running normally: the battery was likely drained or is getting weak. It may have been a light left on. If it happens again, the battery should be tested, since most last about 3 to 5 years. Starts, then dies soon after the cables come off: the alternator probably isn't charging, so the car is running only on what the jump gave it. Starts, but the battery light comes on or the lights dim while driving: another sign the charging system isn't keeping up. That means the alternator, its belt, or the wiring between them. Still clicks or does nothing with a good jump: the problem is probably the starter, a bad cable connection, or something other than the battery. Battery goes dead again after sitting overnight: either the battery can no longer hold a charge or something is draining it with the car off. This is called a parasitic drain. Our post on car battery care for Maryland winters covers why batteries fail and how to make one last longer. What does the battery light mean while you're driving? The battery-shaped warning light doesn't really mean the battery is bad. It means the charging system voltage is off, and the car is running down the battery instead of recharging it. The usual causes are a failing alternator, a loose or broken drive belt, or a wiring problem. Other signs include dim or flickering headlights, a weak blower fan, power windows that move slowly, and a whining or grinding noise from the alternator area. If the battery light comes on, turn off the radio, heated seats and other extras, and drive straight to a shop or somewhere safe. Avoid shutting the engine off, because it may not restart. How long the car will run depends on the battery's charge and the car. It may be only a short time. If the temperature gauge also starts climbing, pull over. On many cars the same belt drives the water pump, and a broken belt can overheat the engine. Our guide to signs of a failing alternator goes into more detail. When is it not the battery, alternator or starter? If the engine cranks at normal speed but won't start, the battery is usually fine. These are the common culprits: Fuel pump or fuel delivery: on many cars you can hear a faint hum from the rear for a second or two when you turn the key to "on." Silence can point to the fuel pump, its relay or fuse. Sputtering and stalling, especially under load, can also be a sign. See fuel pump replacement. Ignition and sensors: a failed crankshaft position sensor, ignition coil or ignition switch can stop the engine from firing even though it cranks. Security system or key: a flashing key or lock symbol on the dash often means the car doesn't recognize the key. A weak key fob battery is a common cause with push-button start. Neutral safety switch: this switch only lets the car crank in Park or Neutral. If it fails, the car may not respond in Park but start in Neutral. Out of fuel: it sounds obvious, but a faulty fuel gauge can fool anyone. Many of these problems leave stored trouble codes, even without a check engine light. A scan with computer diagnostics is usually the fastest way to find the cause instead of guessing and replacing parts. What can you check yourself safely? Look at the lights. Turn on the headlights and watch them while you try to start. If they dim sharply or go out, the battery is the likely cause. Check the battery terminals. With the car off, look for white or blue-green crust, or a cable you can wiggle by hand. Don't touch both terminals at once with a metal tool. Try Neutral. Put the gear selector in Neutral, keep your foot on the brake, and try again. Try the spare key or fob. With push-button start, many cars let you hold the fob right against the start button. Your owner's manual shows how. Don't crank endlessly. Crank for no more than about 10 seconds at a time and wait a minute between tries so the starter doesn't overheat. Jump-start carefully. Follow the steps in your owner's manual. Never jump a battery that is cracked, leaking, swollen or frozen, and keep your face away from the battery. Car won't start in Rockville?Our ASE-certified mechanics test the battery, alternator and starter together, so you replace the part that actually failed. We can tow it in 24 hours a day.See battery, alternator and starter service QuestionsCar won't start FAQHow do I know if it's the battery or the starter?Rapid clicking, slow cranking and dim lights usually mean the battery. A single click or no sound while the lights stay bright usually points to the starter or its wiring.Can a bad alternator stop a car from starting?Yes, indirectly. A bad alternator stops recharging the battery, so the battery runs down and the car won't start. If a new or charged battery keeps going dead, the alternator is a prime suspect.Why does my car click but not start?Rapid clicking almost always means the battery doesn't have enough power, or a cable is loose or corroded. A single click with good power often means the starter or its solenoid is failing.Why does my car crank but not start?If the engine turns over normally, the battery and starter are working. The usual causes are fuel delivery, such as a failing fuel pump, an ignition or sensor fault, or the anti-theft system not recognizing the key.Can you tow my car if it won't start?Yes. We offer 24-hour emergency towing. Call (301) 762-1200 and tell us where the car is and what it's doing. About the authorChristian owns New Level Auto Service in Rockville, MD. He has more than 20 years of experience working on cars and has run the shop for over 10 years. The shop is a licensed Maryland State Inspection station with ASE-certified mechanics who work on all makes and models. More about our shop. Bring your car to New Level Auto ServiceWe're at 716 E Gude Dr in Rockville, MD. Walk-ins are welcome, and calling ahead gets you in faster.Phone (301) 762-1200Hours Monday to Friday 8 AM to 5 PM, Saturday 9 AM to 2 PMExtras Night drop and 24-hour emergency towingCall nowDirections
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Car Troubleshooting
Why Does My Car Shake or Pull When I Brake?
If your car shakes when braking, the usual cause is unevenly worn brake rotors, often called warped rotors. A car that pulls to one side when braking often has a sticking caliper, a collapsed brake hose or unevenly worn pads. Worn suspension or steering parts, tire problems and loose lug nuts can cause both. Shaking in the steering wheel usually points to the front brakes. Quick answerMost common cause: rotors with uneven thickness, felt as a pulsing pedal or a shaking wheel.Pulling to one side: often a sticking caliper or a problem on one side of the car.Steering wheel shakes: usually front brakes. Pedal or seat pulses, wheel steady: often the rear.Stop driving if the pedal is soft, you hear metal grinding, the pull is strong, or a wheel feels loose.Need a tow? Call (301) 762-1200. We offer 24-hour emergency towing. Why does my car shake when I brake? Uneven rotors ("warped" rotors): the rotor is the metal disc the pads squeeze. Rotors rarely bend. More often they wear unevenly or pick up uneven pad deposits, so the thickness varies around the disc. As it turns, the pads grab thick and thin spots, and you feel a pulse. Heavy braking, overheating and unevenly tightened lug nuts all contribute. Worn brake pads: pads worn very thin transfer more vibration and noise, and can damage the rotors. Metal grinding means the pads are gone. Most brake pads last somewhere between 30,000 and 70,000 miles, depending on the car and how you drive. Sticking caliper: a caliper or its slide pins can seize, so one brake drags. That overheats the rotor, causes vibration and often makes the car pull. Worn suspension or steering parts: worn control arm bushings, ball joints or tie rod ends let the wheel move under braking. A small rotor problem then feels much bigger, and the car may shimmy or wander. Have them checked with steering and suspension service. Tires and wheels: an out-of-balance tire, a bent wheel or a tire with a bulge usually shakes while cruising too, not only when braking. Braking can make it more noticeable. Loose wheel: lug nuts that weren't tightened properly after tire work can cause a wobble or clunk. This is dangerous. Stop and have it checked right away. Where do you feel the shaking? Where the vibration shows up is one of the best clues to which part of the car is causing it. In the steering wheel: usually the front rotors, or worn front suspension or steering parts. In the brake pedal only: a pulsing pedal is typical of uneven rotors, front or rear. In the seat or the whole car, wheel fairly steady: often the rear rotors or drums. Only during hard stops or on slippery roads: this may be the ABS doing its job. A rapid buzzing or pulsing in the pedal during a panic stop is normal. At all speeds, braking or not: think tires, wheel balance, alignment or suspension before brakes. If the pedal pulses during gentle stops on dry pavement and the ABS light is on, the ABS may be triggering when it shouldn't, often from a faulty wheel speed sensor. See ABS repair. Why does my car pull to one side when I brake? When you brake, both sides should grip evenly. If one side grips harder or later, the car pulls. Common causes: A caliper or slide pin that is sticking, so one side grabs more or drags A collapsed brake hose that holds pressure on one wheel or slows it from applying Pads contaminated with oil, grease or brake fluid on one side Uneven pad or rotor wear from side to side Uneven tire pressure, worn tires or an alignment problem Worn suspension parts that let one wheel shift under braking A pull only when braking points mostly to brakes. A pull all the time points more to tires, alignment or suspension. A burning smell or a wheel much hotter than the others after a drive is a strong sign of a dragging brake. Don't touch the wheel, because it can be hot enough to burn you. Is it safe to drive if your car shakes when braking? Stop driving and call for a tow if the brake pedal is soft or sinks toward the floor, you hear metal-on-metal grinding, the car pulls hard, you smell burning with smoke from a wheel, a wheel feels loose or wobbles, or the red BRAKE warning light is on. Call (301) 762-1200 for 24-hour emergency towing. Come in within a few days if you feel a mild, steady pulse in the pedal or steering wheel, mostly when braking from highway speed. It's usually rotors, and it tends to get worse. Leave extra following distance until it's fixed, because vibration can make stopping less smooth. Brakes are also part of the Maryland State Inspection. The inspection checks brake pedal firmness and reserve, the brake warning light, pads, rotors, drums and hydraulic lines, among other items. Brake problems are a common reason cars need repairs before they pass. What can you check yourself safely? Tire pressure. Set all four to the pressure on the sticker inside the driver's door. Tires. Look for bulges, cuts or uneven wear. Recent tire work. If the shaking started right after a tire change or rotation, have the lug nuts checked right away. Rotors. On many cars you can see the rotor through the wheel. Deep grooves or a heavy lip on the edge mean wear. Brake fluid level. Check the reservoir under the hood. A low level can mean worn pads or a leak. For everyday habits that make brakes last, read our guide to how long brake pads last and 7 brake myths vs. facts. Brakes shaking, pulsing or pulling?Our ASE-certified mechanics inspect pads, rotors, calipers, hoses and suspension, then explain what needs to be done now and what can wait.See brake repair QuestionsShaking when braking FAQWhat is the most common cause of shaking when braking?Uneven brake rotors, often called warped rotors. The rotor's thickness varies around the disc, so the pads grab unevenly and you feel a pulse in the pedal or steering wheel.Can I just replace the brake pads to fix the shaking?Usually not. If the rotors are uneven, new pads alone won't stop the vibration. The rotors need to be resurfaced or replaced, depending on how thick they still are.Why does my steering wheel shake only when I brake?A steering wheel that shakes only when braking usually points to the front rotors. Worn front suspension or steering parts can make it worse.Is a pulsing brake pedal dangerous?A mild pulse isn't an emergency, but it should be checked within a few days. A soft or sinking pedal, grinding, or a strong pull is a reason to stop driving.Can bad tires make my car shake when braking?Yes. Out-of-balance tires, a bent wheel or a damaged tire can cause shaking that gets more noticeable when you brake. Tire problems usually also cause vibration while cruising. About the authorChristian owns New Level Auto Service in Rockville, MD. He has more than 20 years of experience working on cars and has run the shop for over 10 years. The shop is a licensed Maryland State Inspection station with ASE-certified mechanics who work on all makes and models. More about our shop. Bring your car to New Level Auto ServiceWe're at 716 E Gude Dr in Rockville, MD. Walk-ins are welcome, and calling ahead gets you in faster.Phone (301) 762-1200Hours Monday to Friday 8 AM to 5 PM, Saturday 9 AM to 2 PMExtras Night drop and 24-hour emergency towingCall nowDirections
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Vehicle Maintenance
Car Battery Care for Maryland Winters
Cold weather rarely kills a healthy car battery, but it exposes a weak one. A cold battery delivers less power at the same moment a cold engine needs more power to crank. Most car batteries last about 3 to 5 years, so if yours is 3 or older, have it tested in the fall, before Maryland's first freezing mornings. Quick answerMost car batteries last about 3 to 5 years. Summer heat wears them down, and winter cold is when the weakness shows.Get the battery tested every fall once it's 3 years old, or sooner if the engine cranks slowly.A fully charged battery at rest reads about 12.6 volts. A load test tells you much more than voltage alone.Short trips and cars that sit for weeks are the most common reasons a good battery goes flat.Keep the terminals clean and tight, and follow the right order when you jump-start. Why do car batteries die in cold weather? A car battery makes power through a chemical reaction, and that reaction slows down when the battery is cold. On a freezing morning, the battery simply can't deliver as much current as it can on a mild day. At the same time, the engine is harder to turn over. Cold oil is thicker, so the starter has to work harder to spin the engine. Less power available plus more power needed is why a battery that seemed fine in October can leave you stuck on the first cold morning in December. Maryland winters swing between mild days and hard freezes, and that is tough on a battery that's already weak. Using the oil viscosity your owner's manual calls for, such as 0W-20 or 5W-30, helps the engine crank more easily in the cold. If you're due, our oil change service uses the grade your manufacturer specifies. How long does a car battery last in Maryland? Most car batteries last about 3 to 5 years. Some go longer, and some fail sooner. It depends on the battery, the car, and how it's driven. Heat is actually one of the biggest things that shortens battery life. Hot, humid Maryland summers speed up the wear inside the battery, and under-hood temperatures get very high in July traffic. The damage builds quietly over the summer, and then the first cold snap finishes the job. That's why so many batteries seem to "suddenly" die in winter. Most batteries have a date code or sticker on the case showing when they were made or installed. If yours is 3 years old or more, a quick test in the fall is the easiest way to avoid a no-start in January. How do you know if your battery is weak, and how is it tested? Batteries often give warning signs before they quit completely. Watch for these: The engine cranks slowly or sounds sluggish, especially on cold mornings. You hear clicking when you turn the key or press the start button. Headlights or dash lights look dim, or flicker when you start the car. The battery warning light comes on while driving. You've needed a jump more than once recently. The battery case looks swollen or is leaking, or you smell rotten eggs near it. A basic multimeter check gives you a rough idea of charge. With the car off for a few hours, a fully charged 12-volt battery reads about 12.6 volts. Around 12.4 volts means it's partly discharged. About 12.0 volts or lower means it's close to flat. With the engine running, most charging systems show roughly 13.5 to 14.5 volts at the battery. Voltage only tells part of the story. A battery can show 12.6 volts and still fail when it's asked to start the engine. A proper load test or electronic battery test checks how much cranking power the battery can actually deliver compared with its rating. That's the test that matters before winter. The alternator and starter should be checked too, because a weak charging system can kill a brand new battery. A slow crank can come from any of the three, and our guide on whether your car won't start because of the battery, alternator or starter walks through how to tell them apart. How do you clean corroded battery terminals? White, green or bluish crust on the battery terminals blocks the flow of power and can cause hard starts. Cleaning it is simple if you do it safely: Turn the car off and put on gloves and eye protection. Disconnect the negative (black, minus) cable first, then the positive (red, plus) cable. Mix a spoonful of baking soda in a cup of water and scrub the terminals and cable ends with an old toothbrush or terminal brush. Rinse with a little clean water and dry everything well. Reconnect the positive cable first, then the negative, and make sure both clamps are tight. If corrosion keeps coming back quickly, the battery may be venting or the cables may be damaged. That's worth having checked. Do short trips drain your car battery? They can. Starting the engine takes a big draw from the battery, and the alternator needs driving time to put that charge back. A lot of 5-minute trips in cold weather, with the heater, lights, rear defroster and heated seats all running, can slowly run a battery down. Try to take a drive of 20 to 30 minutes at least once a week. If a car sits for more than a couple of weeks, use a smart battery maintainer. Turn off lights and accessories before you shut the engine off. If the battery keeps going flat even though you drive normally, something may be drawing power with the car off. Tracking down that kind of drain takes testing, which is where computer diagnostics and electrical checks come in. How do you jump-start a car safely? Check your owner's manual first. Some cars have remote jump points under the hood, and hybrids have specific instructions. Never try to jump a battery that is cracked, leaking or frozen. For most cars, this is the safe order: Park the cars close, turn both off, and set the parking brakes. Connect one red clamp to the dead battery's positive terminal. Connect the other red clamp to the good battery's positive terminal. Connect one black clamp to the good battery's negative terminal. Connect the last black clamp to bare, unpainted metal on the dead car's engine or frame, away from the battery. Start the good car, let it run a few minutes, then start the dead car. Remove the cables in reverse order, and drive the car for a while to recharge. A jump gets you going, but it doesn't fix a failing battery. If you needed one, get the battery and charging system tested soon. Battery acting up before winter?Our ASE-certified mechanics test the battery, alternator and starter so you replace only what's actually worn out.See battery, alternator and starter service QuestionsCar battery FAQ How long does a car battery last?Most car batteries last about 3 to 5 years. Hot summers, short trips and long periods of sitting can shorten that. Why does my car battery die in the winter?Cold slows the battery's chemical reaction, so it delivers less power, while cold, thick oil makes the engine harder to crank. A battery that was already weak often fails on the first cold morning. Should I replace my battery before winter?Only if a test shows it's weak. If your battery is 3 years old or more, have it load tested in the fall and decide based on the result. Can a bad alternator drain a new battery?Yes. If the alternator isn't charging properly, even a new battery will run down. That's why the charging system should be tested along with the battery. Do you test car batteries in Rockville?Yes. Walk-ins are welcome at our shop on E Gude Dr, and calling ahead at (301) 762-1200 gets you in faster. About the authorChristian owns New Level Auto Service in Rockville, MD. He has more than 20 years of experience working on cars and has run the shop for over 10 years. The shop is a licensed Maryland State Inspection station with ASE-certified mechanics who work on all makes and models. More about our shop. Bring your car to New Level Auto ServiceWe're at 716 E Gude Dr in Rockville, MD. Walk-ins are welcome, and calling ahead gets you in faster.Phone (301) 762-1200Hours Monday to Friday 8 AM to 5 PM, Saturday 9 AM to 2 PMExtras Night drop and 24-hour emergency towingCall nowDirections
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Vehicle Maintenance
How Long Do Brake Pads Last (and How to Make Them Last Longer)
Most brake pads last 30,000 to 70,000 miles, but the real number depends on how and where you drive. Stop-and-go traffic, heavy loads, and hard late stops wear pads faster, while highway miles and smooth braking stretch them out. Plan to replace pads at about 3 mm of friction material left, before they start damaging the rotors. Quick answerTypical brake pad life is 30,000 to 70,000 miles. Front pads usually wear out first.City driving, towing or hauling, steep hills, and late hard stops shorten pad life the most.Replace pads at around 3 mm of material. Grinding means they're already overdue.Change brake fluid on the schedule in your owner's manual, often every 2 to 3 years.Rotors need replacing when they're below minimum thickness, deeply grooved, cracked, or causing a pulsing pedal. How long do brake pads usually last? There's no single number, because pad life depends on the car, the pad material, and the driver. As a rough guide: Mostly stop-and-go city driving: toward the low end of the range, and sometimes under 30,000 miles. Mostly highway driving: often 50,000 miles or more, since the brakes get used far less per mile. Trucks and SUVs that tow or carry heavy loads: usually shorter, because there's more weight to stop. Hybrids and electric cars: regenerative braking does much of the slowing, so pads can last well past 100,000 miles. Their bigger risk is rust and sticking parts from light use. Front pads usually wear out before the rears because the front brakes do most of the stopping. Some newer cars use the rear brakes for stability control and electronic parking brakes, so their rear pads can wear faster than you'd expect. Your owner's manual and a quick measurement at each service tell you more than any average. What wears brake pads out faster? Pads turn your car's motion into heat. The more often and the harder you stop, the faster they wear. The biggest factors are: Stop-and-go traffic. Daily commutes on busy roads like Rockville Pike or I-270 at rush hour mean hundreds of stops a week. Late, hard braking. Stopping hard from highway speed creates a lot of heat in a short time. Riding the brake. Resting your foot on the pedal keeps the pads lightly dragging. Weight. Towing, a full load of passengers, or cargo in the back all add stopping work. Long downhill grades. Holding the brakes the whole way down overheats them. A sticking caliper or seized slide pins. One pad drags all the time and wears out far faster than the others. The car may also pull to one side. How can you make brake pads last longer? Look ahead and coast. Lift off the gas early when you see a red light or slowing traffic, then brake gently. Leave more following distance. It gives you time to slow down smoothly instead of braking hard. Use a lower gear on long hills. Engine braking takes load off the pads on steep descents. Keep your left foot off the pedal. Even light pressure causes drag and heat. Clear out extra weight. Things you haul around every day add to every stop. Have the hardware serviced with new pads. Cleaned and lubricated slide pins and new clips help the pads wear evenly. Break in new pads gently. Avoid hard stops for the first couple of hundred miles unless the pad maker gives other instructions. Does brake fluid affect how long your brakes last? Yes. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, and that moisture corrodes calipers, brake lines, and the anti-lock system from the inside. A corroded caliper piston can stick, which makes one pad drag and wear out early. Old fluid also boils at a lower temperature, so the pedal can go soft after hard braking on a long hill. Many manufacturers call for new brake fluid every 2 to 3 years, and your owner's manual has the exact interval. Fresh fluid also protects the ABS unit, which has small valves that don't handle corrosion well. If your ABS light comes on, our ABS repair page covers the usual causes. When do rotors need to be replaced with the pads? Rotors don't always need replacing at every pad change, but they often do on newer cars with thin rotors. A mechanic should measure them and look for these signs: Thickness below the minimum stamped on the rotor Deep grooves or a lip on the outer edge Cracks, heavy rust, or bluish hard spots from overheating Uneven thickness that makes the pedal pulse or the steering wheel shake Worn pads that go down to metal can ruin a good rotor in a few hundred miles, so replacing pads on time is the easiest way to save your rotors. If your car shakes or pulls when you stop, see our guide on why a car shakes or pulls when braking. How do you know your brake pads are worn? A steady high-pitched squeal on most stops, which is often the built-in wear indicator Grinding or growling, which usually means metal is touching metal Longer stopping distances or a pedal that has to go farther down A brake or pad wear warning light on cars with pad sensors Thin pads you can see through the wheel spokes, with less than about 3 mm of material If you notice any of these, get a brake inspection soon. Catching worn pads early usually means a simpler repair and rotors that can stay on the car. Not sure how much pad you have left?Stop by and our ASE-certified mechanics will measure your pads and check the rotors, calipers, and brake fluid on any make or model.See brake repair QuestionsBrake pad life FAQHow many miles do brake pads last on average?Most brake pads last between 30,000 and 70,000 miles. Mostly city driving puts you at the low end, and mostly highway driving puts you at the high end.Do front or rear brake pads wear out faster?Front pads usually wear out first because the front brakes do most of the stopping. Some newer cars use the rear brakes more for stability control, so rear pads should be checked too.How thick should brake pads be?New pads usually have about 10 to 12 mm of friction material. Most mechanics recommend replacing them at around 3 mm, and anything under 2 mm is overdue.Should brake pads be replaced on both sides at once?Yes. Pads are always replaced in pairs on the same axle so the car stops straight and both sides grip the same.How often should brake pads be checked?Having them measured at every tire rotation or at least once a year is a good habit. Our article on brake myths vs. facts explains which brake noises are normal and which aren't. About the authorChristian owns New Level Auto Service in Rockville, MD. He has more than 20 years of experience working on cars and has run the shop for over 10 years. The shop is a licensed Maryland State Inspection station with ASE-certified mechanics who work on all makes and models. More about our shop. Bring your car to New Level Auto ServiceWe're at 716 E Gude Dr in Rockville, MD. Walk-ins are welcome, and calling ahead gets you in faster.Phone (301) 762-1200Hours Monday to Friday 8 AM to 5 PM, Saturday 9 AM to 2 PMExtras Night drop and 24-hour emergency towingCall nowDirections
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